Ždrilca bayPakleni Islands

Ždrilca is the bay on the north side of Marinkovac, the second Pakleni island, facing Hvar Town across the channel and a little over a nautical mile from the harbour. It shares a narrow neck of the island with Mlini on the south side, a five-minute walk through the pines, and between them the two bays hold the busiest and most sociable stretch of water in the islands.

The bay is well protected and the sea inside is almost always calm, which is why Ždrilca has been a favourite anchorage for as long as boats have come to the Pakleni Islands. The water is shallow and pale blue over a bottom of sand and pebbles, and on a still morning the whole bay looks like a swimming pool. The shore is flat rock and pebble rather than beach, with plenty of places to lie in the sun and step straight into the sea.

Ždrilca is also where the Pakleni Islands eat lunch. Patak, a restaurant that has been here for decades, serves fish, peka and the island's wine under the trees and is an institution for sailors and Hvar locals alike. Tri Grede next door covers grilled fish and simpler plates, and the beach bar Mamato does drinks and cocktails through the afternoon. Book Patak in July and August; the tables on the water go first.

By boat from Hvar the approach is short and simple: anchor in the bay or pick up a buoy, and swim or tender in. The walk across to Mlini is worth it for a second swim on the south side, where the water is often a shade greener and the beach is pebble. On a self-drive day Ždrilca is the easiest lunch stop in the islands, ten minutes from the harbour, sheltered from almost any wind and with a restaurant at the end of the jetty.

The bay fills from late morning in high season with yachts, tenders and taxi boats, so if you want it quiet, come for a first swim before eleven, or come late for an early dinner as the day boats go home.